Acrylic Cube Idea - Coolercases UK

Mankz. · 10-09-2007, 08:29 PM

Some of you CC'ians might know that I've been toying with the idea of getting a Danger Den Water Box Plus for a while, but after having a nother look at the price, I though, you know, I can make something better for less. SO....

(this point is more about feesability than actually doing it...)

I had the idea of making an entire case out of 8 or 10mm Lexan, but then having a second skin as it were an inch out from the case on both of the sides, the front (apart from one bit for the rad) and the top, acting as one big ass resevior. I think I'd glue the entire thing together aswell as possibly bolting it, but the main point is wether or not its a feasable idea. I can get all the acrylic done to the 0.00001 of a cm, but I'm worried about the joints..

anyway, I'd try and get some small pumps that I can put in the water itself for noise's sake and have a 240mm rad or something...

(I'm doing some sketchup now of it, so you'll have to wait a little)

ps. I hope this is the right section..)

Rig · 10-09-2007, 08:40 PM

If i'm understanding you correctly i think it could be a good idea, the water would no only look good, it would also deaden some of the sound and may even help to keep the rest of the case a bit cooler.

Mankz. · 10-09-2007, 09:20 PM

Right, something else.

Biggest problem is going to be getting it watertight. so... I've decided to make the computer bit itself seperate (with 3mm walls) and then have the resevior around it. The 240mm rad will be on the bottom I think, acting as an intake to the bottom chamber, and then with a single 120mm fan on the top for cooling the mobo, installed with one of those lovely 120mm grills.

back to sketchup..

WinMXer · 10-09-2007, 10:29 PM

Hi Mankz. Thought i'd offer some advice regarding the joining of the acrylic for water tightness. I've come up against the same issue whilst making a custom res for my recent Xbox 360 project. I made a prototype & joined all the pieces with silicon sealant, but it does'nt have good enough adhesive properties so the acrylic still flex's. This in turn allows water to escape which is Bad.

So after a few phone calls & hunting about i've found the best way for joining acrylic, which is by using a solvent bonding compound such as IPS Weld-On # 3. There are also other alternatives but you are basically looking for a solvent adhesive for bonding Acrylic - Acrylic. The stuff I have been using I got from eBay & it's called Poly Weld.

When using it make sure that the surfaces to be bonded are flush & clean, good idea to give them a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to get rid of any grease etc. To apply the solvent you only need a very small amount to be applied with a thin gauge syringe & needle. So long as the surfaces are flush the solvent will be drawn in with capillary action & the bond is pretty much set within 30secs.

Once set the two surfaces are quite literally bonded/welded together so water tightness should not be an issue. If you do find that any water gets through in places, simply clean & dry the surfaces & apply a tiny drop of the solvent to the affected area.

Good luck & let us know how you get along.

WinMXer · 10-09-2007, 10:35 PM

Did'nt even notice there was a poll til after I typed a message. I would be very surprised if anybody recommended anything other than to go with it. I think it's an innovative & exciting concept & can't wait to see your progress.

skunkmunkey · 10-09-2007, 10:46 PM

im liking the sound of this

Mankz. · 11-09-2007, 08:27 AM

Well, I've allready encountered a problem...:

SketchUp sucks.

aNd the laser dolly we have here isn't big enough to do the big panels in one go, so it'll have to be shipped off. I'll do another design of it this afternoon on Cobalt.

Conan257 · 11-09-2007, 08:40 AM

I take it you dont plan on moving this thing then?

If you do a 13" cube, with a 1" resevoir around 2 of the sides that makes 325 cubic inches of resevoir. That weighs 5.32kg or 11.74 pounds. Add all the other parts and its a hell of a heavy machine.

darkblade · 11-09-2007, 09:22 AM

Have you provided a way to drain the system? I would imagine it will be rather heavy including all the liquid.

Teebor · 11-09-2007, 09:30 AM

Hey Mankz,

I was working on this idea many many months ago (might even still be a post around here somewhere if anyone can remember it)

I hit some major snags when designing it though and then decided to dump the whole concept.

Keeping it water tight of course is an issue, but recently a guy I was talking to who build loads of stuff from perplex/acrylic and he said you need to have the edges so they are not completely flush against each other on the joins, then when you apply you adhesive it will pull it in to the gap and give a better join and seal hopefully staying water tight.

If you have to use some sealant for additional water proofing try looking at aquatic sealants as used for fish tanks as it doesn't tend to go mouldy or have other impurities that may affect the water.

Check which plastics you are using for thermal expansion, you don't want them cracking due to expanding and contracting when the PC warms up. Best bet might be to run the water through the rad before it enters the case/res

Think about having an additonal plastic insert for the motherboard tray, you don't want to be mounting the motherboard directly on to the external skin of the water holding part of the case if you can help, just to help prevent accidents.

I was thinking of having the top as a resevoir and the water cascading down the side to a second resevoir behind the motherboard, I was also thinking of having it cascade over the drive areas, but that seemed a little crazy.

Hope thats helps with the design a bit dude, and good luck. I think its a great idea

View Poll Results: My Idea, Should I..:
Go with it, design it make a prototype ect and see if it works	13	86.67%
Go back and try something else	1	6.67%
Just don't think about it..	1	6.67%
Voters: 15. You may not vote on this poll

10-09-2007, 08:29 PM	#1
Mankz. CC Pro Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 1,755	Acrylic Cube Idea Some of you CC'ians might know that I've been toying with the idea of getting a Danger Den Water Box Plus for a while, but after having a nother look at the price, I though, you know, I can make something better for less. SO.... (this point is more about feesability than actually doing it...) I had the idea of making an entire case out of 8 or 10mm Lexan, but then having a second skin as it were an inch out from the case on both of the sides, the front (apart from one bit for the rad) and the top, acting as one big ass resevior. I think I'd glue the entire thing together aswell as possibly bolting it, but the main point is wether or not its a feasable idea. I can get all the acrylic done to the 0.00001 of a cm, but I'm worried about the joints.. anyway, I'd try and get some small pumps that I can put in the water itself for noise's sake and have a 240mm rad or something... (I'm doing some sketchup now of it, so you'll have to wait a little) ps. I hope this is the right section..)

11-09-2007, 08:40 AM	#8
Conan257 Hyper Member Join Date: Feb 2006 Location: Forres, Scotland Posts: 621	I take it you dont plan on moving this thing then? If you do a 13" cube, with a 1" resevoir around 2 of the sides that makes 325 cubic inches of resevoir. That weighs 5.32kg or 11.74 pounds. Add all the other parts and its a hell of a heavy machine. __________________ Have you got an Interociter? Core2Duo E8500 @ 4.2GHz HD4870 4gb Patriot Viper

Similar Threads
Thread	Thread Starter	Forum	Replies	Last Post
Case Idea.... But I cant make it	Teebor	Coolercases General Water Cooling	10	16-09-2005 06:45 PM
Just an idea	Tomme	Modding	11	02-09-2005 09:57 PM
The CUBE	MDK	Gallery	10	02-09-2005 07:30 PM
idea for web site	MiT	Product and Forum Suggestions	18	29-08-2005 10:28 AM
Acrylic working	Kaboom22	Coolercases General Water Cooling	0	27-08-2005 03:10 PM

10-09-2007, 08:40 PM	#2
Rig CC Pro Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 2,587	If i'm understanding you correctly i think it could be a good idea, the water would no only look good, it would also deaden some of the sound and may even help to keep the rest of the case a bit cooler.

10-09-2007, 09:20 PM	#3
Mankz. CC Pro Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 1,755	Right, something else. Biggest problem is going to be getting it watertight. so... I've decided to make the computer bit itself seperate (with 3mm walls) and then have the resevior around it. The 240mm rad will be on the bottom I think, acting as an intake to the bottom chamber, and then with a single 120mm fan on the top for cooling the mobo, installed with one of those lovely 120mm grills. back to sketchup..

10-09-2007, 10:29 PM	#4
WinMXer Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: NW London Posts: 74	Hi Mankz. Thought i'd offer some advice regarding the joining of the acrylic for water tightness. I've come up against the same issue whilst making a custom res for my recent Xbox 360 project. I made a prototype & joined all the pieces with silicon sealant, but it does'nt have good enough adhesive properties so the acrylic still flex's. This in turn allows water to escape which is Bad. So after a few phone calls & hunting about i've found the best way for joining acrylic, which is by using a solvent bonding compound such as IPS Weld-On # 3. There are also other alternatives but you are basically looking for a solvent adhesive for bonding Acrylic - Acrylic. The stuff I have been using I got from eBay & it's called Poly Weld. When using it make sure that the surfaces to be bonded are flush & clean, good idea to give them a wipe down with isopropyl alcohol to get rid of any grease etc. To apply the solvent you only need a very small amount to be applied with a thin gauge syringe & needle. So long as the surfaces are flush the solvent will be drawn in with capillary action & the bond is pretty much set within 30secs. Once set the two surfaces are quite literally bonded/welded together so water tightness should not be an issue. If you do find that any water gets through in places, simply clean & dry the surfaces & apply a tiny drop of the solvent to the affected area. Good luck & let us know how you get along.

10-09-2007, 10:35 PM	#5
WinMXer Member Join Date: Nov 2006 Location: NW London Posts: 74	Did'nt even notice there was a poll til after I typed a message. I would be very surprised if anybody recommended anything other than to go with it. I think it's an innovative & exciting concept & can't wait to see your progress.

10-09-2007, 10:46 PM	#6
skunkmunkey Hyper Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: Norfolk Posts: 668	im liking the sound of this

11-09-2007, 08:27 AM	#7
Mankz. CC Pro Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 1,755	Well, I've allready encountered a problem...: SketchUp sucks. aNd the laser dolly we have here isn't big enough to do the big panels in one go, so it'll have to be shipped off. I'll do another design of it this afternoon on Cobalt.

11-09-2007, 09:22 AM	#9
darkblade Junior Member Join Date: Sep 2007 Location: Newbury, Berkshire Posts: 8	Have you provided a way to drain the system? I would imagine it will be rather heavy including all the liquid.

11-09-2007, 09:30 AM	#10
Teebor CC Pro Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,965	Hey Mankz, I was working on this idea many many months ago (might even still be a post around here somewhere if anyone can remember it) I hit some major snags when designing it though and then decided to dump the whole concept. Keeping it water tight of course is an issue, but recently a guy I was talking to who build loads of stuff from perplex/acrylic and he said you need to have the edges so they are not completely flush against each other on the joins, then when you apply you adhesive it will pull it in to the gap and give a better join and seal hopefully staying water tight. If you have to use some sealant for additional water proofing try looking at aquatic sealants as used for fish tanks as it doesn't tend to go mouldy or have other impurities that may affect the water. Check which plastics you are using for thermal expansion, you don't want them cracking due to expanding and contracting when the PC warms up. Best bet might be to run the water through the rad before it enters the case/res Think about having an additonal plastic insert for the motherboard tray, you don't want to be mounting the motherboard directly on to the external skin of the water holding part of the case if you can help, just to help prevent accidents. I was thinking of having the top as a resevoir and the water cascading down the side to a second resevoir behind the motherboard, I was also thinking of having it cascade over the drive areas, but that seemed a little crazy. Hope thats helps with the design a bit dude, and good luck. I think its a great idea