Radiator Repair Guide - Coolercases UK

Leeum · 22-10-2005, 04:30 PM

I've recently got my hands on a damaged radiator and have decided to try and patch it up, here's a little guide I've nocked up for anyone in a similar situation.

What you will need:

Soldering iron
Solder with flux (I find the best stuff is the 50/50 tin and lead)
Wet and dry sandpaper
Waterproof glue

Here's what we're looking at, a BIX3.

The first task is to locate the leak, the most common place for damage and a leak to occur is on one of the tubes.

These tubes run between the rows of fins on the radiator. If you have trouble spotting the damage, fill the radiator with some water to see where it runs out.

Here's the damaged area. As you can see there's a small hole in the tube which has been pierced by a screw. This guide only really applies to small holes, if you're dealing with something more severe then you're going to have to consider brazing.

The next task is to get the surrounding area of the tube rubbed down with some wet and dry to remove the paint and see the extent of the damage.

Next get your soldering iron and slide it up the tube to the damaged area, get it nice and hot and then proceed with the soldering stage.

With a bit of luck you should be able to solder right over the top of the damaged area. Just to be sure, reach for your glue (in this case, waterproof angling glue) and coat the soldered area with it.

Then get some water flowing through the radiator for a good few hours and watch the repaired are for any sign of dripping water. If you do, rub down the surrounding area and repeat the process of soldering again.

If all goes well you shouldn't see a drop come through

coolmiester · 22-10-2005, 04:45 PM

Nice guide Leeum with some great photography.

That should help save money for anyone who thinks it was game over in a similar situation.

Don't know what i'm so happy about..........i prefer it when they just buy a new one

Seriously though i bet there is a few rads lying around with holes in them that could benefit from this guide.

Leeum · 22-10-2005, 04:52 PM

Cheers Paul

Yup, I finally found that super macros button hehe

Hmm, you mean like the guy who sold me this one? I understand his concern though; I've still got to test this one in a closed loop or on the hosepipe, (apparantly the pressure increases so it may cause the repair to leak) I'll keep y'all posted on how it goes.

If it's all good after that I'll get the repaired bit painted like you suggested

DR_D · 22-10-2005, 05:30 PM

yeah you should pressure test it if possible.

siders77 · 25-01-2006, 07:18 PM

Damn, I could have used this. I've just been and spent the money I was saving for my Wavemaster on a new rad because my old one leaked.

Good guide anyway.

22-10-2005, 04:30 PM	#1
Leeum Administrator Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,573	Radiator Repair Guide I've recently got my hands on a damaged radiator and have decided to try and patch it up, here's a little guide I've nocked up for anyone in a similar situation. What you will need: Soldering iron Solder with flux (I find the best stuff is the 50/50 tin and lead) Wet and dry sandpaper Waterproof glue Here's what we're looking at, a BIX3. The first task is to locate the leak, the most common place for damage and a leak to occur is on one of the tubes. These tubes run between the rows of fins on the radiator. If you have trouble spotting the damage, fill the radiator with some water to see where it runs out. Here's the damaged area. As you can see there's a small hole in the tube which has been pierced by a screw. This guide only really applies to small holes, if you're dealing with something more severe then you're going to have to consider brazing. The next task is to get the surrounding area of the tube rubbed down with some wet and dry to remove the paint and see the extent of the damage. Next get your soldering iron and slide it up the tube to the damaged area, get it nice and hot and then proceed with the soldering stage. With a bit of luck you should be able to solder right over the top of the damaged area. Just to be sure, reach for your glue (in this case, waterproof angling glue) and coat the soldered area with it. Then get some water flowing through the radiator for a good few hours and watch the repaired are for any sign of dripping water. If you do, rub down the surrounding area and repeat the process of soldering again. If all goes well you shouldn't see a drop come through Last edited by coolmiester; 31-12-2007 at 12:44 PM.

22-10-2005, 04:45 PM	#2
coolmiester Administrator Join Date: Jul 2005 Posts: 3,788	Nice guide Leeum with some great photography. That should help save money for anyone who thinks it was game over in a similar situation. Don't know what i'm so happy about..........i prefer it when they just buy a new one Seriously though i bet there is a few rads lying around with holes in them that could benefit from this guide. __________________ MSN: paul@coolercases.co.uk Laptop Contact: mobile@coolercases.co.uk

22-10-2005, 05:30 PM	#4
DR_D Hyper Member Join Date: Sep 2005 Location: London Posts: 758	yeah you should pressure test it if possible. __________________ Dual 2.8Ghz Xeons @ 3.0Ghz (More is possible but is it needed?) Asus PC-DL Deluxe 2 Gig Corsair Twinx 2 x DD TDX Xeons Radeon HD3850 on air DDC with Plexi-top 120.2 XPSC Rad

22-10-2005, 04:52 PM	#3
Leeum Administrator Join Date: Aug 2005 Posts: 1,573	Cheers Paul Yup, I finally found that super macros button hehe Hmm, you mean like the guy who sold me this one? I understand his concern though; I've still got to test this one in a closed loop or on the hosepipe, (apparantly the pressure increases so it may cause the repair to leak) I'll keep y'all posted on how it goes. If it's all good after that I'll get the repaired bit painted like you suggested

25-01-2006, 07:18 PM	#5
siders77 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2005 Location: Yate, Bristol, UK Posts: 110	Damn, I could have used this. I've just been and spent the money I was saving for my Wavemaster on a new rad because my old one leaked. Good guide anyway.